Skin Solutions

Hola! It's Isabel. When it comes to skin care, I am always on the lookout for new products (Maeve likes to call them my "lotions and potions"). Just like most girls, I've battled a few breakouts, and that's NEVER fun. So, I enlisted the help of my new friend Erin Melley, PA-C, who is a physician assistant in dermatology (aka, a skin care expert!). Read on for her answers to my skin care q's!

Q. All of a sudden, my skin is totally freaking out! I'm getting blackheads, dry patches, even pimples! Why is this happening all of a sudden?

Erin: Most girls start getting acne approximately six months before they start having their period. Acne will flare with hormonal changes. Remember, you are not alone. This is normal!

Q. What causes pimples, and what can I do to prevent them?

Erin: The two main causes of acne are genetics and hormones, which we have no control over. Acne is something we can only treat—there is no cure. But, there are things that can make acne worse, like stress. Also, letting sweat sit on the skin for a long time, especially if friction is involved (face masks, chin guards, under clothing), is not helpful. Only 10 percent of acne is food-related.

There are things that can help prevent acne, like keeping your skin clean. This does not require expensive cleansers, harsh scrubs, fancy facials, or spa treatments. In fact, over-washing can dry out your skin, which can cause it to produce more oil and make acne worse.

Use a gentle cleanser applied with your hands—not a washcloth—morning and night and as soon as possible after any sweaty activities. Wipe your cell phone down often, keep your hands off your face, avoid hair products touching your face, and DO NOT pick your acne! This increases inflammation which can lead to scarring, redness, or darker coloring that can last for months.

Q. When I go to the drugstore, I see about a million different face care products. How do I know which is the best one for me?

Erin: It definitely is overwhelming because there are TONS of products that use lots of great words and images to try and get you to by them. Generally speaking, products with ingredients like benzoyl peroxide (careful—it will bleach clothing, sheets, and towels) and salicylic acid are good ones to look for.

Benzoyl peroxide treats the more obvious type of acne, like the pink, "whitehead," bumpy acne. Salicylic acid is a gentle exfoliator that helps treat blackhead type acne and those small flesh-colored bumps that never get larger or go away.

All topical medicines (things you put on top of your skin) are better at preventing new acne than just treating what is there. So, it is best to apply a THIN layer (a pea sized amount for the whole face) to all the areas where you tend to break out. Less is more! Too much medication will not work better; it will just dry out your skin and make it rashy. You need to be consistent—use it at least five days a week. I also recommend applying an oil-free or non-comedogenic (won't clog pores) lotion a minute or two later and sunscreen afterward.

Q. How do I know if one medication or product is working?

Erin: Be patient!  I know it is hard; everyone would like their face clear yesterday! Unfortunately, nothing works as fast as we would all like. Consistent use of a product for at least six weeks is a fair trial of that product -- this is true of prescription medicines, too.  If you flip flop products all the time, you waste a lot of time and money and don't give any one thing a chance. You may also irritate your skin, and if you had used several products, it is hard to know which one was the culprit.

Q. Myth or fact: I've heard that putting toothpaste on pimples is supposed to make them go away. Is that really true?

Erin: Toothpaste can help dry a pimple out and calm inflammation, but there are lots of different kinds. The old-fashioned, white paste would work best. If you are going to use it because it is handy, that's okay. But, if you are going to buy something, try benzoyl peroxide.

Q. What's the best way to get rid of a zit in a hurry?

Erin: Apply a warm—NOT burning hot—compress at least three times a day, then follow with a thin layer of a medicine with benzoyl peroxide in it. Do not pick or pop it, or you are more likely to leave a mark that lasts many times longer than if you had let it do its thing on its own.

Q. Some of my friends go to a special doctor (called a dermatologist) who can help get rid of their acne. Should I go to one, too?

Erin: Many pediatricians treat mild acne with prescription topical medications successfully. If you have a strong family history of significant acne—especially scarring acne—or your acne is not responding to over-the-counter medications or topicals from your pediatrician, talk to your parent about seeing a dermatological health care provider. Again, I would recommend seeing a dermatologist for evaluation before getting facials or other spa-like treatments. It is best to seek treatment on the earlier end to try to help prevent possible future scarring.